Prabha Mohanty shot into limelight recently with the publication of her book, Jute: The New Look, which highlights jute fibre's versatility and its practical applications. An alumni of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, and the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, Mohanty has pioneered the use of jute into high fashion garments. She is presently working as a design consultant with the National Centre for Jute Diversification.

In her earlier association with BTRA, Mumbai, she contributed significantly in the field of processing and weaving of jute. Besides, she has also worked as a design and marketing consultant with the handloom and handicrafts development corporations of many states. Excerpts from an interview:

What is your contribution in popularising jute?

When I started 10-15 years ago in jute, as a designer I felt that India should not only be a raw material supplier, which benefited only mills, but also of theend products. At the same time I also realised that the fibre cannot be developed in isolation. I thought that value addition was necessary and people involved in value addition should also benefit. So I involved artisans, weavers, etc, in my projects. At the same time UNDP and government handicrafts and handlooms departments also started taking interest. All these factors contributed to popularising jute.

What are the main qualities of jute?

Jute's natural golden colour is its main asset. You need not dye it at all. Besides it has high tensile strength, and can be used to replace other material like polyfibres. Jute is also biodegradable.

What are its drawbacks?

Jute sheds hair. We have arrived at technically sound process to dehair it, though.

How can jute be rated vis-a-vis cotton or khadi?

I wouldn't like to compare these fabrics. Jute has unique features. It looks different, and can be used to make a high-fashion collection. Cotton lends itself more to an informalwardrobe in summer. Cotton is too fine to give the fabric a texture. Khadi is too basic, essentially cotton. These don't offer much challenge to a designer.

What kind of a future does jute have?

Today designers are simply picking up the fibre and using it superficially just like that. Jute's future depends upon how seriously people get involved in jute. Cotton has taken 100 years to be what it is. Jute may take another two decades to evolve into a perfectly acceptable fabric.