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Sunday, July 18, 1999

Aryan vigilantes at the border 

Rajiv Tikoo  
When the recent Kargil conflict will be relegated to the back-of-the-book sections in the Kashmir history textbooks, his role may get miniaturised into a mere footnote. That nevertheless doesn't detract from the importance of the fact that he was the first Indian to notice the intrusion in Kargil in early May.

In a rare mix of two subjects in different lost and found cases, it was a villager from the Gharkun village, around 40 miles to the north-east of Kargil and a few miles inside the Line of Control in the Batalik area, who, while looking for his lost sheep, first spotted the infiltrators.

Rushing back, he informed the Indian security forces, who sent a patrol a few days later on May 8. The rest, as they say, is history. It is not the only instance when the villagers from the region have served the Indian security forces guarding frontiers in inhospitable conditions. ``We form the backbone of the Indian security forces. We help in keeping vigil, doubling as porters and provide supportinginfrastructure,'' boasts Tsering Morud.

In fact, before the conflict, Kargil was known more for being home to these pure Aryans. Living down the Indus, a few thousand of them inhabit a few villages such as Dah, Biama, Gharkone and Darzeek. ``Insulation from the outside world and intercommunity marriages have helped us preserve our racial purity down the centuries,'' emphasises Tsering Ganphil.

Their Aryan lineage has also made them coveted in some foreign countries, according to villagers. Elaborates a villager from Gharkone, who refuses to be identified: ``Foreign women seek our men to get impregnated to bear Aryan progeny.'' Whatever the truth of this claim, the villagers are a delight for ethnologists and social anthropologists.

Legend has it that when Alexander invaded India, some of his soldiers strayed into Batalik valley and eventually settled there, siring a new indigenous Aryan race. In a conflicting claim, folklore traces their migration from Gilgit in the ancient times, probably well beforeGilgit's Islamisation. ''

In fact, our language resembles the language spoken in Gilgit, and by immigrants from Gilgit settled in Drass,'' points out Tsering Wangyal.Whatever their origins, the minuscule community is unique in more than one way. Though Buddhists by religion, their culture and religious practices are different from the rest of the Ladakhi Buddhists. In fact, their practices resemble those of the ancient pre-Buddhist animist religion known as Bon-chos.

Some of their customs resemble those of Shins, like their abhorrence of the cow, or any of its products. Elaborates Tsering Duryj, ``We neither drink cow's milk nor eat butter made from it. We don't even use cow dung as fuel.'' Like Shins, they purify themselves not by washing but by burning twigs of pencil cedar and letting the smoke and scent inside their clothes.

Their way of life and ancient customs are showcased in their triennial Bono-na festival, which is a celebration of the harvest. Brokpa dance, performed in traditional costumesand in the backdrop of folklore and hymn singing, is the highlight of the festival. Apart from entertaining audiences, the event also offers the uninitiated an insight into their ancient traditions.

Many of the songs centre around the ibex hunt. Ibex is sacred to the community. Ibex images even decorate doors and walls of houses. Ibex is not only believed to bring prosperity, but also symbolises fertility. One may not be sure about their beliefs, but they seem to have got their priorities right.

Copyright © 1999 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.


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