And now here was the Oberoi beckoning me to go and partake of white asparagus delicacies, and with the resident food expert out of town, the gods had willed that these delights were to be mine.

But my dismal broodings had not taken into account the formidable talent of executive chef Olaf Niemeier, who has managed to transform the asparagus -- in this case, only the white kind -- into works of wonder, both for the palate and for the eyes.

We started off with Home-Smoked Tea-Flavoured Duck Breast on a White Asparagus Salad and Berry Dressing (Rs 645). The duck was divine, and surprise, surprise, so was the asparagus!! The berry dressing containeda heady mixture of raspberries, blueberries and blackberries.

The Tian of Freshly Sauteed Mix of Wild Mushrooms, White Asparagus and Bell Pepper Oil (Rs 530) was equally good. And these were just the starters.Soup time brought a cappuccino. What's that? you say. Well, this was White Asparagus Soup served with Caviar Foam (Rs 440) in a coffee cup, and cleverly made to look like the real thing. Till you took a sip. I can say with a clear conscience, swearing on my reputation as a soup freak, that this was the best soup I have ever tasted. But Niemeier dismisses it as ordinary stuff dressed up to ape its betters.

My fellow asparagus-sufferers tried the Clear Duck Consomme served with White Asparagus Ravioli and Marinated Duck Confit (Rs 295), and declared it to be astounding as well. This was a more aesthetically pleasing soup, more tarted up, let's say, and flamboyant, too.

After these wonders, the main courses fell short of my expectations, but that had more to do with the dizzy heights the latter hadreached. I chose a Grilled Rack of Lamb served on a White Asparagus Gratin with Sauteed Shallots and Red Wine Gravy (Rs 1,090). And the disappointment was more because the gratin, alas, brought back memories of my childhood asparagus! But a bite of the Pan-Fried Salmon Steak Served with White Asparagus Tips and Cream Sauce (Rs 880) convinced me that Niemeier's asparagus genius was no flash in the pan.

On to dessert, and lo and behold, here was more asparagus, but how skillfully disguised. The Candied White Asparagus and Vodka Mousse (Rs 295) in a Sesame Tulip and Fruit Coulis looked too good to put your spoon into, but when you did... Ah well, suffice it to say that I had to brisk-walk an extra 30 minutes the next morning to work that one off.

Better on the tastebuds, if not as showy, was the Creme Brulee with Caramelised White Asparagus and Fresh Marinated Fruit Salad (Rs 295). Ummm! If my mother had only known how to caramelise asparagus, I think I could have reached a better understanding withit!

--Mimmy Jain

The White Asparagus Festival is on at the Oberoi New Delhi's La Rochelle restaurant from May 29 to June 13.