Among the best restaurants is Bodegas Campos at Calle Los Lineros 32, where the walls are also adorned with bullfighting poster bills dating back as far as 1899.
Prepare your palate with a glass of Torre de la Barca, a young white wine from the region, accompanied by partridge pate with a dark Pedro Ximenez sherry sauce and olive oil powder. You should try the salmorejo soup, a cream of gazpacho with egg, ham and olive oil.
Meat and poultry are the specialty of this region but if you're not in the mood for a big steak, it's common in Spain to share a series of small dishes instead of a main course.
Some popular local dishes worth trying are fried eggplant with molasses (berenjena frita en miel) and an egg and breadcrumb roll of pork loin wrapped with thinly sliced Spanish ham (flamenquin de Iberico) with homemade garlic mayonnaise.
Lunch options include outdoor tapas bars or more formal restaurants such as El Churrasco at Calle Romero 16.
Follow the menu suggestions of Pedro, the head waiter and entertaining showman. Start with a glass of Montilla-Moriles fino, a local aperitivo halfway between wine and sherry, before trying the smoked sardines on toast with guacamole and tomato jam (sardines guacamole caramel de tomate).
The kid goat or beef tenderloin (lomo de buey) goes down well with a glass of Ribero del Duero Torre de Golban (crianza). A good accompaniment could be sliced potatoes with egg and garlic (patatas a lo pobre) or white beans (habitas) in virgin olive oil with bits of ham and cooked in egg.
For dessert, the fried milk flambé with anise is a treat.
Priego de Cordoba, a 90-minute drive into the mountains southeast of Cordoba, is a picturesque town in a major olive oil region with half a dozen important mills, known as Al Masara in Arabic.
Cordoba is proud of its olive oil and nowhere more so than Priego, which like wine has its own regional denomination and is considered the best in Spain.
This region of Andalusia also produces some fine white wines such as Barbarillo Castillo de San