Pasted on a rusty wall right next to the door that leads one to designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla’s factory unit-cum-office in Andheri is a square piece of paper. Not only does the print-out wish the staff on the occasion of Navratri, it also lists a colour code to be followed by them on each day of the nine-day festival. And even as grey, orange, white, red, blue, yellow, green, peacock green and purple find mention on this sheet, the office takes the colour story further with spools of threads in the same bright colours adorning the duo’s shelves. “White is our favourite colour but we also enjoy working with a rich palette of hues. After all, that is what makes Indian clothes stand out against western ensembles,” says Khosla, matter-of-factly.
With over 25 years of sartorial expertise behind them, there’s little that Abu-Sandeep haven’t dabbled in within the sphere of Indian couture. Known as the masters of revival and reinvention, they are credited with celebrating chikankari, zardozi, tharad and mirror work, and this is perhaps why it should come as no surprise that all of these are finding their way into the designers’ latest couture line titled “The Golden Peacock”. Slated to be unveiled on October 7 at the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower, this collection marks their first public show after a gap of almost five years (their last show being a private showing for close friend Nita Ambani). “The collection finds its roots in a peacock-themed bridal creation that Abu had sketched around three years ago. The thought stayed in our heads and so when we sat down to etch out a collection this time, we knew that we’d make a line centred around this element,” Khosla points out, adding that the bird is a symbol of immortality of the eternal and the unchanging.
While the peacock segment will have ivory, beige and skin and traditional jewel toned sherwanis, anarkalis, ghagras and saris, other sections in the collection focus on resham, gota and nakshi embroidery as also art deco influences. The duo points out that the show