



: “It was my 25th year in films — and you knew it. Thanks, I enjoyed the meal and the atmosphere.”
“A very interesting experience, both in food and in the seating, which simply invoked the nostalgia.”
Those were Shashi Kapoor (January 8, 1985) and Satish Gujral (Oct 11, 1998), writing in appreciation of the time they spent at the Orient Express. No, not the legendary trans-Europe train, but the restaurant at Delhi’s Taj Palace hotel. You may have passed restaurant entrance while on a visit to the hotel. And chances are that you would have entered the brightly lit Kafe Fontana next door.
Next time, pause for a second look. For nearly a generation now, Orient Express has been a discreet, top end hangout where India’s old money, politicians and industrialists alike, went when they wanted to dine out without being crowded. As Orient Express celebrates 25 years of serving India’s elite, the restaurant looks to take on the challenges of an era where the railway is no longer the image of the ultimate in high life.
And there’s a lot more of the untapped new clientele that it seeks to attract. The wagon is intact, as are its heavily leaden tables and well stocked bar — early 500 wines along with an equally impressive list of other beverages. The layout and decor haven’t changed, and the staff is still as eager to take care of your whims and fancies.
But there are signs of change too. Among them is David Tilly, who presides over the kitchen that still holds the Continental cuisine flying in the face of increasing culinary choices available in India. “We have a tradition of being number one in terms of style, opulence and luxury, and we want to continue,” says this Frenchman who has worked in Michelin star restaurants in London and Paris. So the new menu, which he has drawn up, will remain continental, but will also have local touches. “The biggest changes will be in terms of different types of ingredients. The food will be less creamy and with less gravy. French fine dining is all about lightness, excellent plating, small portions,” he stresses. Guests are of two types, he says. Some Indians want spicy, sauce-laden dishes. “We have to be flexible,” he says, and admits to being comfortable with fusion recipes. He is quick to clarify that many of the regulars, and...
| Single Page Format | 1 - 2 - Next |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |

© 2009: The Indian Express Limited. All rights reserved throughout the world