Mystics and wild orchids

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is one of the largest monasteries in the state. The monastery is situated on a ridge here. Belonging to the Nyingmapa sect, the 17th-century clay statues preserved in the monastery are among the oldest in the entire state. Close by are the Rabdentse ruins, the capital of the Chogyal kings. In the 17th century, three learned monks from Tibet arrived here and ordained a milkman, Phuntsok Namgyal, as the King of Sikkim, starting the Chogyal dynasty. Buddhism flourished since then and the dynasty lasted up to 1975. Even though not large, the structures are geometrically serene and are pitched against the stark landscape. From here we went down-hill, further west to Pelling. It is a small town of a few hundred people. Shops and buildings line the hill that directly faces the breathtaking Himalayas. But the day isn’t too bright. Luckily, however, Kanchenjunga is in sight, partially hidden behind scanty clouds. Pelling has the grandest view of the mountain, panoramic, breathtaking and many visitors lodge here for the day or so, enjoying the quiet and calm of the surroundings.

It was late afternoon when we headed for Kecheopalri, the mystical lake supposed to be one of the 108 sacred lakes of the Himalayas. The road from here is rugged, with landslides at many turns. Revered by both Hindus and Buddhists for its magical power to heal, the Kecheopalri Lake is a mystery in itself. Surrounded by thick oak forests, the waters of the lake are jade green, with no signs of fish in them. All that resounds is the cacophony of the thousands of frogs that peep out of the water. A small shrine stands at the bank, with a priest lighting lamps in prayer. A few dwellers pass by the lake carrying firewood.

The mystery about Keocheopalri is that whenever leaves from the trees fall into the water, the thousands of birds that dwell here, fly down picking it away from the lake. There must be a tale behind it I thought, but all I came to know of it is how learned lamas and gurus came here to meditate. Just a mile’s climb uphill was a retreat that was out of bounds for laymen. And, close to the retreat was another lake that I was told of, the Rakthpokhri, or the lake of blood. Any human presence here would darken the weather and bring a storm.