Dosas, vadas, or nachos?

Font Size

Print

Feedback

Email

Discuss

Related Articles

Cadbury, Nestle lock horns over Pehli tarikh adWe have ample stock of food grains: FM

: Soon, it would be an effort to find a Udupi hotel that serves only the ubiquitous idli-dosa-medu vada and thick coconut chutney. Across the country the number of Udupi restaurants are dwindling. Around 600 Udupis closed down in Maharashtra alone last year. With wafer thin margins, the second generation does not want to venture into the business. “In near future, expect to see authentic Udupi fare only in a food festival on a five star menu,” says Vithal Kamat, executive chairman and MD, Kamat Hotels India. Kamat who runs a chain of 100 restaurants in India laments: “It’s difficult to find labour. Realty and running costs are also prohibitive. Thank god, we still offer water to our guests at arrival. Atithi Devo Bhava is still being practiced in all Udupis.”

Innovation is the key to survival then, for Kamat and his fraternity. Remember the kela bhajias, South Kanara (SK) pakoras, goli bhajia (fried sweetened flour dumplings) which were a staple at any Udipis if one were to go at tea time — almost all of this has disappeared from the menu. Udupi restaurants have leapt across states and countries to serve Punjabi, Chinese, and lately even Mexican and Italian food items. Combo meals, home delivery and international food are garnishing the menu or diluting it.

So expect to find nachos, enchiladas, quesadillas, tacos, wraps, burgers, pastas, pizzas and also the dosas, idlis and medu vadas! “Udupis have changed the menu in keeping with the local populace’s spending capabilities,” explains Nikhil Shetty, BMC Sub Committee Chairman, Association Hotel and Restaurant, Mumbai.

Hari Kotian who runs a fast food Udipi hotel (yes, fast food) has sandwiches, pav bhaji, schezwan and continental fare. From Hakka noodles to Chinese dosas, the youth popularising the hotel roots for its fruit beer. “There are no deep fried items on the menu, no SK pakodas ... for everyone is health-conscious,” he said. Some Udupis are also delivering lunch boxes to offices.

Not all has changed though. Thick coconut chutneys can’t be done away with, said Manohar Shetty from Bangalore. That still remains the hallmark. His family has been running restaurants here for generations. “The IT-crowd does not like the old ambience of an Udipi restaurant. And financially, it is not feasible to change the interiors. So, we offer the variety found in fast food outlets.”