Wednesday, February 28, 2001
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Head for the kebabs 

 
The Kandahar at The Oberoi is a gateway to low-fat Indian food, the kind that visiting foreigners love. The restaurant showcases various kinds of Indian food, blending together the various flavours and spices to imitate the taste of the dish without sending your calorie count zooming catastrophically upwards.

The USP of Kandahar is an unbelievable array of kebabs. Executive chef Anirudh Arora admits as much: "We have the largest selection of kebabs-vegetarian and non-vegetarian-in India."

Try the delicious Chaas (Rs 70), which is delicately infused with cummin, coriander leaves and pepper. Along with the Chaas comes a basket of assorted papads and kakras and a tamarind and mint chutney. As an appetiser, the combination works really well.

Now comes the interesting part, the Kebab Platter. The vegetarian version costs Rs 650-700, depending on the kebabs you choose; the non-vegetarian version costs Rs 850. The Kandahar does not have a fixed Kebab Platter, but it will put one together for you with kebabs of your choice. By the way, the restaurant caters to those who don't eat onions, ginger and garlic. Each dish can be made without using one or all of these.

The glass-fronted display kitchen permits a full view of the tandoors and the charcoal grill as the chef readies your meal. The sight also makes your salivary glands flow freely. So by the time the kebabs came, we were more than ready. The succulent Paneer Tikkis were out of this world. It had large squares of tender paneer, which could be eaten on their own or dipped in chutney. The Chicken Tikkis in the non-vegetarian platter were also perfectly marinated and melted in the mouth.

If you have a soft corner for Biryani, the Vegetarian Biryani (Rs 300) and the Dum Gosht Biryani (Rs 515) are both highly recommended. The food here has a touch of Punjabi and Awadhi in it. Like its name, the restaurant specialises in dishes from the North-West Frontier Province. All the ingredients used for cooking the dishes are flown in from Lucknow.

We also tried the Palak Rikhowche (Rs 365), which came in a thick tomato gravy. The Irani Nalli Ghosht (Rs 485) is a good choice for non-vegetarians.

The dessert section is rich and traditional. You can try the Shahi Tukra (Rs 195) if you want to really binge. Or, settle for a Kulfi, it's worth it. We had the Sharife Ki Kulfi (Rs 165). Fingerlickin' good!

The food at the Kandahar is spiced to suit foreign palates, so if you have a penchant for spicy Indian food, this is not the place for you. What you can do is request the chef to step up the spices specially for you. You will not be in a minority. Says Mr Arora, "Amazingly, some foreigners want it like that. And we do it for them."

-Sulekha Nair

Copyright © 2001 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.

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