Mojari is the staple footwear of rural Rajasthan. To take the craftsmenship beyond the village boundaries, Rajasthan government's Rural Non Farm Development Agency (Ruda) is extending a new type of patronage.

Ruda is implementing a UNDP project which aims to prevent the art from dying. The craftsmen, however, are sceptic of such an enterprise because whatever interaction they have had with town people through melas and haats has not been pleasant. Insensitive bargaining by the city folk seems to be the common cause of grievance.

Ruda has adopted 75 villages in Nagore district, a total of 1,000 families, in the first stage. "An initial sum of Rs 1 crore hascome from UNDP through the National Leather Development Programme and the project is being implemented by us. The Rajasthan government is committed to this programme," says Rajeev Mathur, deputy general manager, Ruda.

Though the shoes, made of goat, cow and buffalo leather, have a strong ethnic appeal and are durable, certain changes have to be incorporated to make them acceptable in the urban market. For instance, the artisan make interchangeable shoes for both feet with the same shape. Ruda provided the identified families polymer lasts (shoe moulds) to help them make shoes of different shapes for the left and the right foot (the style common with people in cities).

Ruda has also provided them with designs created by designing institutes, like the NIFT, Pearl Academy of Design, etc. Says Mathur, "We have contemporised the traditional designs. Though the design is new, the skill is age-old. So the ethnic touch is not lost." Ruda is also bringing out design brochures so that all the villages under theprogramme have all designs. The villagers, however, are not convinced with the new style shoes. Says Laxman, a mojari shoe maker from village Gular, "Our people do not like the differently shaped shoes and ask for the straight ones. But, in cities people like these shoes." Adds Shankar from Panchwa village, pointing towards a mojari with an abstract design embroidered on it, "People from our village laugh at these designs but I guess they will be liked in cities."

While some families have accepted the designs in full, there are some who are not willing to lose their style. Says Chandraram Jaigar of Ladaliya village, "We have made changes in the designs handed out to us and the final products have come out very well."

It is not that the craftsmen are not open to new designs but the old ones are sure to sell. "The money we get by selling in village is enough to sustain us. We make as and when required and don't build up stocks," points out Dharachand of Borawna village.

For participating in the recentShoe Fair at Delhi, the craftsmen had to put in their own raw material. "They came and told us that two people should get ready to come to Delhi with all the shoes. We had to work whole day and night to prepare the stock. If we sell these shoes at Rs 250-300, then we can earn only Rs 50. If we can't, we will lose all the money," complained one villager who did not see much benefit in the programme. In his village, the person appointed to help the artisans is not connected with mojari work in any way and hence the doubts.

Ruda has provided the villages with machines to improve production speed and quality. Each village has been given one machine to sew together shoe edges and craftsmen take turns on it. Says Laxman, "The finishing of our shoes has improved with the help of machines." Abdul Rahim of Ramsyan village feels that if the Ruda provides machines which will help them to sew leather together then it can go a long way in improving quality.

Embroidery on shoes is done by ladies of the household. "Onepair is made by one couple in one day," points out Rahim.

Ruda, a two-year-old organisation, is into three fields -- leather, wool and minor minerals. It has done considerable work in leather. There are about one lakh families which are involved with mojari. "Ruda is trying to link them with the organised sector. Some shoe companies, like Balujas, have shown interest in tapping this craft," says Mathur. The idea is to let a company adopt some villages and give raw material to craftsmen and then sell the product.

With the footwear industry passing through a slump, one wonders whether mojari has any scope for growth. But Mathur is optimistic. "The rural economy is growing at twice the rate of urban economy. This leaves enough scope for rural craft to grow. Moreover, mojari has a niche."

Pricing is the most important factor for craftsmen. New to the ways of business enterprises, they aspire only to get back the money and labour invested by them. The concept of profit is missing. But Ruda is right nowfocussing on marketing, especially in new areas. However, the point to ponder is what will happen to the craftsmen once the programme ends. For this, it is vital for Ruda to kindle a spirit of enterprise among the craftsmen.